The skiff list DETAILS

When staring to work on a flats boat skiff design you have to make up a weight list to know in advance what is going into and on your skiff. With this you get an idea what its going to cost after sourcing out your parts and materials. Also if you can weigh each piece in advance then you can work with this on your new design. The thing to realize is that 98% of what you see on the below list is what will go on most all skiffs in the 12 -25 range and upwards. The only differences will be rub rails and engines.

Every thing else will be small sutilties. But it maters when you want to have a skiff weigh out all up in the 600-700 lb. range. It also matters in all kinds of other boats like high performance sailboats , multihulls and anything that wants to be fast with low horse power. So get a good scale and start weighing every thing and make your list. I would print up mine here for you but I cant find it right now.

When I was in business for myself I used  to make up these parts lists and price all my whole sale vendors against each other to see who had the best deals. This really played out well when building  over $400,000.00 in boats a month. Doing a one off today in your garage its best to find a freind in the business and see if you can get stuff from them at a good break in cost. Today on the Internet you can find all kinds of good deals but you have to take the time to do this. I am always looking through old boatyards for deals to be found. It helps to be thinking years or projects in advance.

This list is blurry here. If you can see it the prices are old but gives you an idea of whats up.

I will post all these drawings on my facebook photo page as they are real clear there.

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Chine ideas round stern details

Heres some sketches of my current thinking on my lower lifting Chines, spray strakes, and a round transom.

This is how I see certain Chines working. When running your skiff and others look at how the water flows out from under the skiff when at all angles of trim. Do this in flat water to get a good view and then in rough water to see what really happens. All small skiffs suffer from the fact that they cannot travel fast enough to get away from beam sea spray blow back. To help in this I feel you need to help direct the spray away from the hull in a downward and hopefully aft direction.

 

I use this reverse spray strake to direct the spray down. Small light skiffs do not need any lift from the middle of the skiff forward. You will have to use trim tabs to get the bow down so why have these lifting  strakes there? In a solid glass bottom they do add some strength but at the cost of being wet.

  Station # 1

Starting at the stern going forward my latest ideas on my bottom lifting - keel strake .

The added keel drawn could be added to the HBBWs Guide and 17.8 and others as they have enough vee to the bottom that will allow these mini keels to not drag.

Station # 2 

Station # 3 

I feel by softening the inner chine it will keep the water flowing closer to the hull and that will  

Get it to be directed downward and lower. Do this starting at the helmsman seat. Aft you need sharp edges to get speed and planning ability. All the spray there is going away from you. 

Station # 4 

A free hand sketch of how this really round transom will work. The bottom stern edge is straight but all above is really very round and soft. I do not like trim tab pockets as too much work . These reverse outty Pockets will be easy for installation as they can fit all kinds of trim tabs and sizes. 

Lots of lines , and angles here. Hope you can see whats happening here.

 

In reality its all very simple but on paper its a lot of lines. To remove the boat hull from the mold you will pull the hull out like taking off a shoe. The only thing is the stern sheer flange downturn will not be there to stop the hull. This is no big deal as it will be under the deck flange.

Hope this helps in thinking of different ways of getting rid that damn spray and making for a quiet stern for the purists out there.

 

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